An extensive level of palette was seen on the coming Spring/Summer 2011 catwalk, described collectively as saturated, flamboyant and nostalgic, as if it was spoken about a number of seasons combined.
New York
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| Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2011 |
On a wider spectrum we saw 3.1 Philip Lim’s Ready-to-wear show in New York display a more muted palette with neutral shades of taupe, tan, black and blush, relating perfectly against his pretty chiffon creations and delicate layering. Another designer incorporating a subdued colour palette was Alexander Wang who also previewed his collection in New York, featuring an all-white show. At Diane Von Furstenberg, Vogue described her show as integrating a “glorious mash-up of colours that shouldn’t work but somehow do.”
A strong featuring of red and orange were included coinciding vast, bold prints with intense graphics. A more differentiated range of muted colours were seen on Marc Jacobs catwalk, in a sense of gold and pinks with cinnamon, copper and mauve. Oscar de la Renta used a range of ostrich and summery hues with floral prints and pinks, as well as contrasting against the Spanish influences incorporated into the designs by using black and white with muted gold and limes.
A different approach was taken at Rag & Bone, displaying an on-trend attitude by using bold colours and graphic prints, as well as Vera Wang who featured pigmented darks within her show in terms of black, greys and navy. Finally, at William Tempest, designs were conceived in a bright palette of coral, lemon and pale grey alongside nude, showing us a range of luxurious evening gowns in Raphaelite and Victorian influences.
London
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| Christopher Kane Spring Summer 2011 |
“Royal neon” and “Princess Margeret on Acid” was what was described in reference to the show presented by Christopher Kane in London. Fuchsia, yellow, green, orange, intoxicating and chemically acidic colours featured on all pieces throughout, not only in colour blocks but also inprinted with intrinsic designs and craftmanship. Erdem took the same approach to the colour palette as those featured during New York Fashion Week, with a more neutral palette of corals and white, dramatcially bledding into eachother along with a stong featuring of floral prints throughout the designs. At Mulberry, we again saw corals, this time with a large focus on denim and chesnut coloured palettes, tieing in with a seventies vibe again contrasting against the blue hues with putty and mushrooms we saw at Peter Pilotto.
Milan
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| Dolce & Gabana Spring Summer 2011 |
This season, a much more colourful method was seen as Gucci – a lot of jewel colour combinations such as dark orange, emeralds, gold and black as well as deep purple hues giving the designs a very Autumnal impression, however a subtle colour palette of nudes and pale fabric lines were also collective, giving a ladylike and lavish feel. Not dissimilar, the Prada show also took on the optimism trend, featuring many simplistic designs in an array of bold and graphic colours – an energetic colour palette of green, orange, blue, balck, white, plum in a series of graphics and prints. A high contrast against Dolce & Gabbana’s show which was almost entirely white, with the occasional black outfit symbolising virginity and priority. In terms of print, a subtle olive pattern was featured on silk material, giving off an understated and low key garment. At Jil Sander, Raf Simons took the neon trend and turned into a much more diverse and wearable design, again featuring a heavy influence of garish jewel colours in a range of print and fabric, as well as stripes and colour clashing. Completely altered palettes seen at Versus, with tartan in yellows, oranges and black combined with floral prints as well as interpreting the “be bold” trend by mixing fuchsia with red and orange with green. Finally, Salvatore Ferragamo’s calwalk in Milan impressed a strong sense of luxurious and wealth, using again a muted colour palette in which we have seen previously through designers works in New York with tans and Camel – a key colour trend of this Autumn/Winter. Coinciding this, he uses olives and browns, with mellow yellows breaking the Autumnal colour palette. The warm shades give off a hippie luxe feel, corresponding well with the seventies trend said to carry on from this season’s monumental trend.
Paris
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| Lanvin Spring Summer 2011 |
In Paris, Christian Dior presented a very naval and sailor-esque range for Spring/Summer, with a large focus on navy blue and white. Coinciding this, Galliano featured denim in his designs, alongside pinks, purple, bright oranges and greens with strong turquoise embellishment. Showcasing young and summery colours like Dior, at Loewe the palette was incredibly bright and obstentatious – featuring fuchsia, saffron, coral, greens and orange. However, at Loewe, they contrasted these brights as we have seen previously, with a muted colour paltte of tans and camels reflecting a sense of wearable diversity. With this came the butterfly motif, adding a delicate pattern to the harsh materials in again summery colours of greens and pinks.
Inspired by a vast amount of parisian artists during the 19th century, John Galliano’s catwalk proved to be a colourful one. Creams, greens, neon acidic brights, pinks, oranges, neutral nudes and whites contrasted well against each other to create a strong sense of hard and soft seen previously with Burberry in London. Another influential colour palette seen on the Parisian catwalk this season was at Lanvin, where designers used remote, dark colours such as dark greens and blues, as well as a combination of grey, khaki, black and indigo. They also featured a dash of neon pink and yellow, though subtly, teaming it with somber colours. Keeping with the somber colours, Givenchy introduced a fierce colour palette, the first to feature leopard print, as well as metallic blacks, again giving the catwalk a very wintery edge.
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